Clutch Adjustment The Easy Way

[chopper]

Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.

1) Loosen the clutch cable adjustor and remove ALL the slack in the cable. But don’t mess with the lever. Just leave it alone until the 3rd step.

2) Loosen the lock nut on the clutch pack pushrod adjuster.

3) Pull in the clutch lever. if should touch or be close to touching the handle bars. if it does not touch the handle bars back out the pushrod adjuster at the clutch pack while keeping a slight pressure on the clutch lever until it touches the handlebar.

4) When the clutch lever just touches the handle bar turn in the pushrod adjuster while keeping a slight pressure on the clutch lever. When you turn in the adjuster it will start to push the lever off the handle bar. Back the adjuster out until the lever returns to just touching the handle bar. Do this a couple of times until you know you are at the point where the lever is just touching the bar. When you find this point - back the adjuster out 1/2 turn and lock it down.

5) Adjust the clutch cable to 1/8 slack and lock it down.

Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 deep well socket and weld a nut on top of it. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut. You can then use an Allen wrench inside the socket and a wrench on the nut you have just welded on. Makes it a lot simpler.

[cjburr]

Saw your post chopper and thought one with pics might help someone.

Adjusted my clutch today and took some pics along the way, hope this helps you out. It's a very simple task that will only take a 1/2 hour or less if you have the proper tools.

First thing to do is place the bike upright on a lift so when you remove the clutch inspection cover you don't lose any fluid, if you don't have a lift you need to have someone sit on the bike and hold it upright. The job doesn't take that long so it's not that big of a deal and they don't have to hold it up until you get to the part where you remove the inspection cover.

Remove the left side peg, unless you have forward controls.



Next pop off the spring type retaining clips so you can easily work on the cable.



Pull the rubber boot up to give access to the adjustment on the cable.



Break the jam nut loose and screw it up to the top.



Screw the cable adjuster up against the jam nut.



This will give you lots of slop at the lever like this.



Next remove the clutch inspection cover. These screws take a T27 Torx bit, if you don't have one go to Sears and pick up a kit that has all the Torx bits in it. I was unable to find a T27 by itself and had to get the kit. If you don't use the right bit you will surely strip the screw head and then you have a new can of worms.



Heres the kit I got



Here is the inside, you can see the hex lockplate with the spring attached, if the spring stuck to your cover then the hex lockplate may be sitting there by itself or still attached to the spring, no big deal.



Remove the hex lockplate with the attached spring off of the adjusting screw assembly. You can see how it is slotted to prevent the adjusting screw from backing out.





Using a flat blade screwdriver turn the adjuster counterclockwise until you feel resistance. Then turn it back clockwise a 1/4 turn.



Reinstall the hex lockplate with the spring, turn the adjustment screw clockwise if you have to to line up the flats on the lockplate.

With the bike upright it would be a good time to check the fluid level also before you put the inspection cover back on. The fluid level should be just below the bottom edge of the inspection cover hole with the bike upright.

Reinstall the clutch inspection cover being careful not to dislodge the quadring (rubber seal) from the primary cover. If it comes off use a little bearing grease to hold it in place. Also make sure the spring seats in the cup on the back side of the inspection cover.


Reinstall the screws with some blue LocTite, torquing to 84 to 108 INCH POUNDS

Say it with me now, LocTite is our friend



Adjust your cable by turning the adjuster away from the jam nut until you have 1/16" to 1/8" clearance between the ferrule and the lever housing. Pull the cable away from the housing to determine this. Lock down the jam nut, pull the rubber boot back over it, reinstall the spring clips, put on the peg assembly and you're done.





Hope this helps you out, and if you don't have one already, go get the manual. You really need it, at least for the torque specs for your fasteners.

Chris

[CaptEvo]

Thanks for that.......that's very helpful. I would only add that when you get the torx screws out throw them away and replace them with allen heads.

[cjburr]

Originally Posted by CaptEvo

Thanks for that.......that's very helpful. I would only add that when you get the torx screws out throw them away and replace them with allen heads.

I agree allens are a better fastener, but if you use the proper bit the torx screws aren't that bad.

[WaBiker]

excellent writeup and Pics... nice job Chris.

[cjburr]

thanks Wa, just trying to bring the work I did at the other joint here for those that might need it.

[LouEvo XL]

Originally Posted by cjburr

thanks Wa, just trying to bring the work I did at the other joint here for those that might need it.

Thanks Chris.

[obinella]

am i mistaken here or do i see two distinctly different approaches to clutch adjustment? simplified verses shop manual. both will get the job done but everyone is acting as there the same. bunch of yes men?

[cjburr]

not sure, my post was merely how I did it on my 06 Sportster, thought some pics would help, and yes mine is strictly from the manual.