Clutch Adjustment By The Book

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Clutch Adjustment Technique By The Book


Let's go over the basics of clutch adjustment on late motorcycle models.

Ideally, you want the motorcycle to be on a lift or stand. The procedure can be done on the kickstand but, some primary fluid may leak out.

Back off the cable adjuster until the adjuster is fully collapsed.

Remove the derby cover and set aside.

Loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut two turns.

Turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release. At this time the clutch lever should have very little play.

Back the adjuster out 1/2 to 1 full turn from seated. Repeat this several times to get all the play out.

Lock the adjuster nut down while holding the adjuster from turning.

Work the clutch lever several times before adjusting the free play at the cable adjuster. Adjust the free play to 1/16" to 1/8" as measured at the pivot. I usually add just a little slack as a personal preference.

Work the clutch several times to make sure operation is smooth and no binding in any part of the travel.

Install the derby cover after topping off primary oil if needed.

Perform a test ride and adjust the free play as needed to get the engagement and release points correct.
If you cannot adjust the clutch free play with the cable adjuster, the cable may be stretched or frayed. If the cable has been replaced, the wrong cable may have been installed.

A worn or warped clutch pack will often feel as if the adjustment is bad because it tends to make the release and engagement jerky. If after adjusting the free play you still have clutch operation problems it may be time to take a look at the clutch.