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| Electrical and Lighting Tips on electrical and light systems for all Motorcycles. |
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#1
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tips on wiring
If you are going to splice a cable with multiple wires, i.e. handlebar switches, stagger your cuts. You do not want all of your cuts at the same point, because when you solder and apply the heat shrink in one location, it make the wiring harness fatter at that location. This could cause you problems if you want to run the cables inside the bars.
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#2
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Also the use of tape isnt that great an idea. use heat shrink tubing over all connections to get a true moisture proof seal.
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#3
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i also prefer soldering joints VS. butt splices, then shrink tubeing over joint or terminal
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Ride free, my brother, my friend.. Garry Gipson, 5/20/10 Ride free Mr. Jimi! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
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#4
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Quote:
Pm me with email and ill email reasons why. due to copywrite i cant post material here. |
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#5
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Crimp style connectors suck........
Make notes in you service manual for additional ckt connections, for light bars, ciggarette lighters......etc..... Properly dead end any wires you do not plan to use......ie front running lights if only using front indicators....
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#6
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If anyone gives a Rats Patoot:
Just got my IPC Solder Inspect Cert and this was on my test: J-Std-001 states: fixed connections = Solder Flexible/Moveable connections = Crimp Crimps can be good... We use 'em for Class III connections, but most people buy the cheap shit made in *china crap* connectors. |
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#7
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Quote:
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#8
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Quote:
There is a cool connector we use, thats a Bullet Connector encased in shrink tube w/Low melt solder built in... plug it together, heat it up with a Heat Gun... solder flows and shrink tube shrinks all in one shot. But thats a semi-permanent application, geared more towards ease of manfacturing rather than maintenance. Although, from a *piece of Mind* perspective, I wouldnt mind using them for wire splices. For clarification: Class I = basic commercial product applications, the only real criteria is that the Product has to function going out the door....prolly 80% of the electronic consumer products sold. Class II = commercial applications where the Product has to work for extended periods of time..... kind of a grey area that depends on the Customers design criteria. Class III = commercial/military applications that must function everytime all the time.... Medical or other life saving or dependant devices, Aircraft Primary systems, Weapons systems etc etc |
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#9
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I am curious how big ogf a hole you would put in your bars to put pich connectors. I suppose it depends on what you are doing. I wish I had read this first so I could offset my wires and prevent the increased size at the joints.
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Spoiled but definitely not rotten. This is my 1993 sinister sporty. And those are some big titties. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
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#10
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RR, the good butt connectors that have heatshrink tubing insulators dont increase the thickness much more than a soldered joint that has heatshrink tubing on them and sometimes is even smaller than soldered joints that has been wrapped with tape.
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